Ankober Palace - fit for an emperor
Posted September 5th, 2008 by Linda
Emperor Menilik of 1844 was a key modernizer of Ethiopia, being the first to introduce the telephone into Ethiopia (despite his nobilities resisting the technology convinced it’s the work of the devil), the first modern bank, railroad, and the first one to attempt abolishing slavery and women’s oppression. He was also a heroic leader in defeating the Italians at Adwa with admirable help from his wife Empress Taitu.
After escaping imprisonment at the mountain of Meqdala by his predecessor Emperor Tewodros, he went to Ankober, an elevation perched on a breathtaking 2465m over the escarpments of Ethiopian highlands.
Today, not much is left of his former palace, but on the same grounds, is an eco-lodge, just as traditional and archaic as the former fortress itself. I had the chance to go there and experience this wonderful place. Sitting on the wooden chairs on the porch outside the well built cottages holding the restaurant and chambers, you will be able to see what seems like the entire of Shoa. We were told that the dining halls and chambers during Menelik’s time were also in similar design as the ones now existing. The view of the fertile green covering the amazing landscape extending as far as the horizon will have the irises of your eyes at their widest fascinated by the mesmeric panorama.
Ankober area provides arguably the best scenery in the country. Its tangible historical value makes it sentimental. To have the same view that the emperor himself enjoyed centuries ago and to stand on the same grounds that ancient troops marched on carrying the beloved flag gives you a never- seen- before perspective.
We were told endless stories of the merits of Emperor Menelik such as this one time when famine hit southern Ethiopia and the peasants’ cattle were dying, but the farmers were too proud to dig and plough with their own two hands thereby choosing to starve. At the news of this, the emperor rode all the way to the famine sight, took the tools from the hands of the farmers and started digging the earth himself showing the locals that working with ones two hands is not shame but glory.
A museum housing rare artifacts from Menelik’s time is also a remarkable nearby destination. For ornithologists, this will be your chance to see the very rare Ankober Serin and other extraordinary birds like the black winged love bird.
Found north-east of Addis Abeba,130 km to Debrebirhan and then a turn to Ankober woreda at a signboard of a lodge to an additional 42 km of gravel road. It is advised you take a four wheel drive warm clothing as it tends to be chilly at the top. Expect 4-6 hours’ drive depending on the type of car and of courses your speed.
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